Archive | May, 2012

Italian Road Trip Day 4 :: Italy to Germany

Thus far this northern Italian road trip had included many lovely vistas and gorgeous countryside, but Day 4 beat them all.  We started in Verona and drove straight up through northern Italy, a corner of Austria, and into Germany that night.  Along the way we passed through the Dolomite Mountain region of Italy and then entered the Bavarian Alps region of Austria and Germany.  Pretty?  Beautiful?  Breathtaking?  There are not words in the English language.

There is also no way that any camera can capture the magnificence of that region of the world through a car window from a highway.  I tried, wanting to have a piece of that place to savor down the road. 

We passed through so many tunnels that day (one of them over 5 miles long!) and sped past hundreds of vineyards.  We also admired unusual sights along the way, like old-school luggage strapped into convertibles and random castles along the roadside.

A photo of Innsbruck right after we crossed the border into Austria:

For lunch that day we slipped off the highway and into a region called Appiana sulla Strada del Vino, roughly translated “the Wine Road South of the Alps.”  It was as idyllic as it sounds, with pretty little lakes to hike around and lovely hotels and homes surrounded by lush green vineyards.

A mama coot and her 5 little babies:

This one is for you, Dad Garber.  We think this is a European columbine.

We found a little trattoria nearby for a lunch of bread, cheese, sliced meats, and house wine.  This is where we realized that we were barely in Italy anymore, because the woman serving us lunch spoke about as much Italian as we did.  She was blond-haired and blue-eyed and spoke German, even though we were still 50 miles inside the Italian border!  I’m sorry to say that the meal was also not very Italian, for the bread was old and dry, the meal was served with a pickle, and the wine lacked the robust flavor of house wines that we’re used to.  Maybe we should have order the schnitzel and pretzels instead?  Oh well, at least it looked tasty!

The animals on the trattoria owner’s property were our favorite part of this rest stop.   Lena fed the geese and met her first guinea pigs!
 
 
That evening we finally arrived at Edelweiss Lodge and Resort, the hotel in Garmisch, Germany, where Elliott’s veterinary conference would take place all of next week.  But more about that after the weekend.  Elliott’s home for a four-day weekend and we’re excited about a trip to the beach with friends as well as a lot of downtime as a family.  Wherever you are, go soak up the sun, enjoy a good book, and I’ll see you here next week!
4 :: in family, Germany, Italy, travel

Italian Road Trip Day 3 :: the Adriatic Coast & Verona

On Saturday morning we woke up in another little town in Italy, this time on the Adriatic coast.  Rimini, Elliott determined, is a beach town that primarily serves Italians and Russians.  We were the only people speaking English in that whole town, it seemed.  
That morning we woke up and grabbed a traditional Italian breakfast (brioche and a coffee) and headed for the beach outside our hotel.  It was beautiful and so peaceful in the morning.  None of us were dressed for the water, but how can you keep a one-year-old out of the sand and sea?

Weird thing to see on the beach in the morning: bodybuilding couple flexing their muscles for endless photographs.  Yikes.

Later, while Lena napped, Elliott and I discussed and then thought that we’d probably enjoy our day just as much here as anywhere.  Back to the beach after nap time! 

Lena met a crab:

 

When Lena was sufficiently tired out and ready to sleep in the car, we hit the highway towards Verona.  I had hoped to stop along the way in Emilia Romagna, a province of Italy renown for its food (spaghetti alla Bolognese, balsamic vinegar, and tortellini, to name a few).  Unfortunately my sweet baby slept through both Bologna and Modena, leaving us with no choice but to leave Emilia Romagna behind and hope for lunch sometime around 4pm upon arrival in Verona.  Oh baby!

But “lunch” sure was good when we finally got it.  We stopped in some grass by Verona’s ancient city walls to savor and enjoy. 

In Verona’s central piazza we found a Mother’s Day fair in full swing, complete with live music, a ceramic pot-painting station (pictured below), and an obstacle course set up by the police to teach little kids out to bike safely.  

 

We visited the beautiful old castle (literally “Castello Vecchio,” the old castle) in the heart of Verona.  The setting sun cast a lovely light on the river and surrounding buildings.  Easy to see why Shakespeare set Romeo and Juliet here!

 

Biking is huge in Verona.  They even have their own bike share program, just like Capital Bikeshare in D.C.!

We finished our day with pizza and drinks in a quiet piazza.  Ahhh travel… in retrospect, we do love thee!

4 :: in family, Italy, travel

Italian Road Trip Day 3 :: the Adriatic Coast & Verona

On Saturday morning we woke up in another little town in Italy, this time on the Adriatic coast.  Rimini, Elliott determined, is a beach town that primarily serves Italians and Russians.  We were the only people speaking English in that whole town, it seemed.  
That morning we woke up and grabbed a traditional Italian breakfast (brioche and a coffee) and headed for the beach outside our hotel.  It was beautiful and so peaceful in the morning.  None of us were dressed for the water, but how can you keep a one-year-old out of the sand and sea?

Weird thing to see on the beach in the morning: bodybuilding couple flexing their muscles for endless photographs.  Yikes.

Later, while Lena napped, Elliott and I discussed and then thought that we’d probably enjoy our day just as much here as anywhere.  Back to the beach after nap time! 

Lena met a crab:

 

When Lena was sufficiently tired out and ready to sleep in the car, we hit the highway towards Verona.  I had hoped to stop along the way in Emilia Romagna, a province of Italy renown for its food (spaghetti alla Bolognese, balsamic vinegar, and tortellini, to name a few).  Unfortunately my sweet baby slept through both Bologna and Modena, leaving us with no choice but to leave Emilia Romagna behind and hope for lunch sometime around 4pm upon arrival in Verona.  Oh baby!

But “lunch” sure was good when we finally got it.  We stopped in some grass by Verona’s ancient city walls to savor and enjoy. 

In Verona’s central piazza we found a Mother’s Day fair in full swing, complete with live music, a ceramic pot-painting station (pictured below), and an obstacle course set up by the police to teach little kids out to bike safely.  

 

We visited the beautiful old castle (literally “Castello Vecchio,” the old castle) in the heart of Verona.  The setting sun cast a lovely light on the river and surrounding buildings.  Easy to see why Shakespeare set Romeo and Juliet here!

 

Biking is huge in Verona.  They even have their own bike share program, just like Capital Bikeshare in D.C.!

We finished our day with pizza and drinks in a quiet piazza.  Ahhh travel… in retrospect, we do love thee!

4 :: in family, Italy, travel

Italian Road Trip Day 2 :: Assisi & San Marino

Early Friday morning we woke up in Foligno, a random little town that happened to have a Holiday Inn Express where we could use hotel points.  (Not very cultural of us… but it worked!)  Our goal that day was to enjoy Assisi in the morning, make it to the tiny landlocked country of San Marino that night, and then find our hotel in Rimini on the Adriatic.  We packed our bags, strapped our daughter into her car seat, and we were off on another day of Italian road trippin’ adventure!

Assisi, home of St. Francis of Assisi, was breathtaking:

 

Pictured below is the Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi, the mother church of the Franciscan Order.  The multi-level cathedral consisted of an Upper Church (magnificent Gothic style), a Lower Church (much older, built into the hillside under the Upper Church), and a crypt containing remains of St. Francis.  No pictures allowed inside, unfortunately.

We ate lunch in a little trattoria recommended by our Fodor’s guide.  Lena received endless personal attention from the waiters, including complimentary pasta and a cookie.  She wanted to share her cookie with everyone and her parents, at least, were happy to help her out with a bite or two!

 

We left Assisi and turned off the main highway onto a winding back road through the countryside.  I failed to take any pictures, probably because by the time I realized “I should be taking pictures” I was full length in the grass beside a church, recovering from car sickness.  Sigh.  Will you believe me if I say the rolling hills of Italian farmland were worth the rolling stomach?

We drove into San Marino around dinnertime.  The Republic of San Marino is a 24-square-mile country that is completely surrounded by Italy.  Few people have heard of it, but Lena will have to remember it her whole life because it is the 15th country she’s visited!

We took a cable car up to the highest point of the city.  We could see for miles: the Adriatic Sea, the Apennines, and endless glorious green countryside.

 

4 :: in family, Italy, travel

Italian Road Trip Day 2 :: Assisi & San Marino

Early Friday morning we woke up in Foligno, a random little town that happened to have a Holiday Inn Express where we could use hotel points.  (Not very cultural of us… but it worked!)  Our goal that day was to enjoy Assisi in the morning, make it to the tiny landlocked country of San Marino that night, and then find our hotel in Rimini on the Adriatic.  We packed our bags, strapped our daughter into her car seat, and we were off on another day of Italian road trippin’ adventure!

Assisi, home of St. Francis of Assisi, was breathtaking:

 

Pictured below is the Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi, the mother church of the Franciscan Order.  The multi-level cathedral consisted of an Upper Church (magnificent Gothic style), a Lower Church (much older, built into the hillside under the Upper Church), and a crypt containing remains of St. Francis.  No pictures allowed inside, unfortunately.

We ate lunch in a little trattoria recommended by our Fodor’s guide.  Lena received endless personal attention from the waiters, including complimentary pasta and a cookie.  She wanted to share her cookie with everyone and her parents, at least, were happy to help her out with a bite or two!

 

We left Assisi and turned off the main highway onto a winding back road through the countryside.  I failed to take any pictures, probably because by the time I realized “I should be taking pictures” I was full length in the grass beside a church, recovering from car sickness.  Sigh.  Will you believe me if I say the rolling hills of Italian farmland were worth the rolling stomach?

We drove into San Marino around dinnertime.  The Republic of San Marino is a 24-square-mile country that is completely surrounded by Italy.  Few people have heard of it, but Lena will have to remember it her whole life because it is the 15th country she’s visited!

We took a cable car up to the highest point of the city.  We could see for miles: the Adriatic Sea, the Apennines, and endless glorious green countryside.

 

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4 :: in family, Italy, travel

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