Archive | Sicily

a visit to Cefalu

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Hello again!  Hope you all had a wonderful weekend.  We laid low at home, enjoying time together as a family and doing lots of reading.  I inhaled this novel over the weekend, which is masterfully written and partially set in Italy.  We also visited the beautiful Casa delle Farfalle (Butterfly House) on Sunday afternoon as a family, eating a picnic outside first and then admiring butterflies in the greenhouse afterwards.

Picking up where I left off last time… a few weekends ago, after our wonderful lunch in a castle, we had an evening and a full day left of our family getaway.  We drove into the pretty coastal town of Cefalu in northern Sicily and found our apartment, which we’d rented through AirBnB.  We love renting apartments and skipping hotels mostly because we feel like we have a much more authentic local experience and because they are usually more affordable and practical with little kids.  We rented this great apartment just across the street from the beach.  Center of town, three bedrooms, balconies over looking the ocean, a full kitchen… and all for less than any decent hotel room I could find.

Other than Sunday lunch, I packed all the food we’d need for the weekend in a cooler, and that also streamlined our travel with little kids.  There are really few things more stressful in life than a delicious dinner in a great restaurant that you can’t enjoy because it’s past your poor kids’ bedtime, especially if the only person to blame for that stressful situation is you!

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On Sunday evening and early Monday morning, we explored the beach near our house.  I loved the old city wall filled with apartments along the water.

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This cutie is 9 months old now and loves to go on walks.  He starts hyperventilating with excitement if he sees the Baby Bjorn.  If you set him down in order to put on the baby carrier, he will inevitably believe he isn’t going on a walk after all and will burst into a heartbroken storm of tears.

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After adventuring on the beach and a break for Gil’s morning nap, we vacated our apartment and headed out on a walk up La Rocca, the steep cliff towering above the city.  The walk was immediately beautiful, and we felt miles away from the beach as we ascended into pungent pine forest.

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View from partway up La Rocca.

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Gil is in his element, Lena is taking a welcome break.  I was a total dummy and only packed one baby carrier, so Lena had to walk up the whole way.  She let us know this was not her idea of a good time…

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… so this happened towards the end, and this is definitely her idea of a good time.

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Break for lunch after the ascent.  We were surrounded by ruins from ancient Greek and Roman times.  (P.S. I married the best-looking guy!)

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Looking up the coast of northern Sicily towards Palermo.

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The view straight down the cliff was of the main cathedral (which we visited right after our hike) and the stunning blue of the Tyrrhenian Sea.

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I spent awhile helping Lena walk along a rock wall as Elliott (and Gil) took pictures of the view.  Lena’s wearing Saltwater Sandals, the one pair of shoes that I bought to last her all summer long for every event (weddings, beaches, hikes, play dates, and Sunday services).  Because they are white, waterproof, sturdy, and made of beautiful leather, they were the perfect choice!

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The view through an old window in the ancient ruins.

becca-garber-cefalu-sicily-17 Family!

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A pretty kitty we found at the end of our hike.  We wanted to take her home!

becca-garber-cefalu-sicily-16Vespas and a cute boy in a straw hat.

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It’s a little hard to see in this picture, but three kids were sitting on three different balconies talking and helping each other with their homework!

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Walking through Cefalu after our hike.

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We found the cathedral with La Rocca looming behind it.

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Cathedral and a cute girl in a straw hat.

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And pistachio and chocolate gelato.  Not a bad end to a lovely trip!

6 :: in family, Italy, Sicily, travel

Sunday lunch in a castle {Caccamo, Sicily}

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In our family, I am the one who is usually eager to travel and explore, whereas Elliott is grateful for weekends to stay home and rest.  I’m home all week, so when the weekend comes, I’m like, “Get me outta here!”  But I know how much Elliott loves quiet time with his family; he will spend whole Saturdays building block towers and having dance parties with Lena and Gil.  Therefore the greatness of his sacrifice was not lost on me when he offered to take a Monday off and let us travel somewhere over the weekend.  I might have done a happy dance.

After a little research, we chose to go to Cefalu (cheff-a-LOO) on the northern coast of Sicily.  On our way there, we decided to detour to the mountain town of Caccamo (KAH-kah-moo).  Our guide book raved about the lunch served in a restaurant below a castle, and we know Sunday lunch is a tradition in Sicily.  We made it to Caccamo in time to explore the castle before stuffing ourselves on a huge four-course meal.

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View of Caccamo as we walked up to the castle.

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There was a mountain bike race ending right at the foot of the castle, right outside the restaurant.  Mountain bikers were everywhere, including the castle, and one of them was kind enough to take our picture.

Also… ahem.  Lena was fascinated with this ancient toilet.

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Lake, valley, mountains… so much of the scenery reminded us of California.
Also, I love my cute family!

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Hand-painted floor tiles.

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Inside the Great Hall of the castle.  On the other side of the room was a huge fireplace and windows overlooking the mountains and valleys.

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You catch a glimpse of the ocean to the left.  What a setting!

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And now… time to eat!  I loved the brickwork and the decor.  All the baskets are very distinctly Sicilian and are woven by hand from strips of olive wood.

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Gil is eating so much now, and we are hoping he’ll fatten up!  He’s still hanging out around the 10th percentile for weight.  He ate a lot of our delicious meal, which included the traditional four courses: appetizer plates, two kinds of pasta, meat and salad, and cannoli and espresso for dessert.  Definitely more food than we could possibly hold!  There is nothing like a traditional Sicilian meal, eaten slowly over 3 hours and washed down with vino della casa.

Of course, everything was about 5 times more stressful for us than any of our neighbors because of our tired little kids, but Lena and Gil did pretty well, and we were grateful we came.  Around 4pm we buckled them back into the car, and they were asleep before we left Caccamo!

Up next… photos of our beautiful weekend in Cefalu.

5 :: in family, Sicily, travel

Sicilian market mornings

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It’s been quiet around here this week because I am preparing for a big craft fair this weekend.  My sewing machine and I have become fast friends again!  We’re churning out little dresses for girls and dolls, candy corn-shaped trick o’ treat bags, saucy stuffed penguins.  I’ve also been knitting, and I have a row of darling little baby shoes and a stack of fingerless gloves, among other things.  It gives me such joy to see these things take shape in my own hands and to share my love of yarn, fabric, and form with others.

I thought about taking a picture of the mess around my sewing machine, but that end of the kitchen table is just too chaotic.  So you get a picture of my market haul instead. My love for autumnal produce was renewed this morning as I stocked up on broccoli, beans, and persimmons, as well as the last of the basil and tomatoes of the summer.  Twelve euro for all this goodness!  That’s $16.49 USD at the current exchange rate.  Now we just have to eat it all!

I went to the Italian grocery store afterwards and bought a plastic container filled with squishy, fresh mozzarella balls floating in whey.  With the tomatoes and basil, mini Caprese salad will be on the menu tonight!

Speaking of tonight’s menu, I just put Lena down for a nap, and she said:

Lena: Maybe when Gil and I wake up, we can go to da playgroun’!
Me: Hmm… I don’t think so.  We’re going to stay home and cook a duck for dinner.
[slow smile spreads across her face in anticipation of her favorite meal]
Lena: Duck say, “Quack quack!  Don’t eat me!”

Well now, let’s hope not…

4 :: in life lately, Sicily

October in Taormina with friends

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Are you my friend?  Do you want to visit Italy?  Then please do.  We have only nine months left here and your time is running out!  Now’s your chance!  Free place to stay!  Free food!  Personal tour guides!  Cute children!  Buy a plane ticket!!!

Our friends Lewis and Bekah just visited, and it was SO fun.  Here they are:

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Like I mentioned before, we had a blast during their visit, and I am so grateful that there are people like Lewis and Bekah in our lives.  They are forever friends.  It doesn’t matter if we live across the country or across the world or in the next neighborhood: we’ll all work hard to make sure this friendship endures and deepens with time.  And I mean… look how fun they are!  What’s not to love?

becca-garber-taormina-mcneels-october-17 One day during their visit we took them to beautiful Taormina, a city just an hour north of us.  I introduced everyone to Da Cristina, which makes the best arancini (traditional Sicilian rice balls) that I’ve had in Sicily.  Lena is chomping into my eggplant and cheese arancino on the right.

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His curls just keep on growing… and curling!  And getting blonder!

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Vehicles like these are usually used by farmers or street sweepers in Sicily.  I loved the upcycled version!

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These magnificent creations — called pasta reale — are made out of marzipan and shaped like fruit.

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This would have been a cute family photo if Lena hadn’t deliberately closed her eyes and looked away…

becca-garber-taormina-mcneels-october-15 On the right, an amiable (and pregnant!) Bekah gave me a break to go running with Lena.  “Let’s run, Mama!” is her new thing.

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becca-garber-taormina-mcneels-october-18 My family in the beautiful Villa Comunale park, one of our favorite stops in Taormina.

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These two tried their first granite (Italian ice) at Bam Bar!

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I could make a whole blog post with at least 30 pictures of Lena eating granite at Bam Bar.  It’s the best that we’ve ever tasted, and we’ve tasted a lot.

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If you visit us, we’ll take you to Taormina!  Pretty promise, pretty please.

9 :: in pretty places, Sicily, Taormina, visitors

our last mom-outing to Taormina

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Oh Taormina! Your picturesque streets, dazzling vistas, and romantic aura charm everyone who visits you. I’ve been hooked since my first visit over two years ago, which was also my very first “mom and kids outing” with my best friend Becca Arthur. We have visited this beautiful town together so many times, but this was our last trip together, as the Arthurs were moving to the States in just two days.  So bittersweet!

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Lunch from Da Cristina, our favorite pizzeria in Taormina.  We learned about it in this wonderful NY Times article!

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Lucas shares some pizza.  Caleb participates vicariously in the bite from the background.

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Making friends with little Italian boys by the town fountain.

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Our motley crew outside a Versace store
& peekaboo, Lena and Caleb!

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Fascinated by the little mechanical toys in the piazza
& admiring the view from the cliffs of Taormina.

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My pretty Lena… with a frown.

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Mandatory stop for the best granite (Italian ice) in Taormina!  Lena got strawberry and lemon, and I got peach and lemon, both made with fresh fruit.  Gil got a taste but wasn’t so sure…

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Rebecca enjoying granita and brioche for the last time in Taormina with her Lucas, Baby Eden, and Caleb.

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Last adventure of the day: walking up to the Greek amphitheater!  This was the first time I had visited, even though it’s a huge attraction in Taormina.  Lena and Lucas wait for us to buy tickets so they can go in the gate.

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The Arthur kids have visited many times and had fun showing Lena all the fun places to climb.

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We loved exploring the old amphitheater and admiring the gorgeous view from the top.  The theater was all set up for summer concerts and operas, which are a big attraction all summer long.

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Everyone was pretty tuckered out by this point… including Gil!

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Last pit stop: popsicles.  They were so so good, but…

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… very, very messy!

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At the end of that day, with two moms and six kids, we were all ready for a nap!

But leaving Taormina for the last time together was sad. Becca taught me so much about getting out and experiencing the culture of Italy. She embraced her stay-at-home mom status in a totally unique way: she would find another fearless mom, pack multiple children into a minivan, and set off on an all-day adventure around Sicily. She would savor architecture, food, gelato, and beautiful views while navigating rapid Italian, tiny roads, tricky parking, vague directions, and often a very confused GPS. She would roll her eyes and laugh at the chaos of life with so many little children, then pile them into her stroller and strap them onto her back and set off around the next corner. She loved Italy, and Italy loved her back.

Perhaps the parallels between her cultural adventures and the way she lived her everyday life are pretty obvious.  In so many ways, she is the mom and woman I aspire to be: warm, generous, self-deprecating, humble, and full of laughter… while also a fabulous cook (including of local specialties), creative mom, come-as-you/we-are hostess, and loyal friend.  In some ways, Becca was my first “mom” friend, someone I bonded with not just because we had a lot in common and loved being together, but someone whose kids loved my kids and who shared mothering — in all its crushing losses and thrilling joys — with me in everyday life.

I miss you, Becca!  Can’t wait for some adventures together soon in North Carolina!

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8 :: in friends, motherhood, Sicily, Taormina, travel

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