Archive | travel

Scala dei Turchi

About a week ago, our friends Josh and Becca invited us to join their family on a trip to historic Agrigento in southern Sicily.  We stayed in a wonderful B&B filled with amazing animals (peacocks and mastiffs and cockatiels, oh my!) and spent hours exploring the beautiful Greek temple ruins.  But before arriving we took a detour to the beautiful natural wonder called the Steps of Turkey, or the Scala dei Turchi.

The entrance to the scala is down a long flight of wooden stairs and across a secluded beach.  The children (Elise, Caleb, Lucas, Becca’s brother Grant, and our little Lena) loved the lapping waves, tidal pools, hermit crabs, and cold wet sand.

After a long walk on the beach we reached the scala itself, which is a massive, sloping outcropping of soft golden-white limestone.

We made our way up and over the sloping “steps” of the scala and found a place to sit on the other side while the older kids explored up and down on the rocks.  Lena wanted to climb up to her friend Lucas!

Later Lucas and Lena conferred about the taste of limestone.  Lena had tried a lot of it.  Lucas, at 16 months, is a little more savvy about the edibility of such things.

Eventually we returned to the beach to watch the sun sink into the Mediterranean.

Such a lovely spot!  We’ll take you to see it when you come visit!

6 :: in friends, Italy, Sicily, travel

and now, Albania

Getting to Albania turned out to be harrowing.  I do not exaggerate.  The drive from Macedonia into Albania required us to traverse two mountain passes in a snowstorm.  Although the sky appeared clear and promising before the journey began, that quickly changed as the temperature dropped, our van climbed, and the snowflakes began to fall.

Pretty soon we were driving on a road over an inch of snow, and more snow was falling fast.  At this point we began to be seriously concerned and implored our guide and driver to please put the snow chains on the car.  In retrospect we overreacted, but they also waited too long to even attempt to put the chains on.  By the time the first attempt was made, we were high in the mountains, stuck in a bank of snow, and getting the chains on was impossible.

We did get out of the car at that point, at which point my mom took this picture of me.  I do like playing in the snow… even in dire circumstances! 

After this pit stop, we traveled slowly down the mountain, snow-chain-less and nervous, creeping along past banks of fresh snow.  Finally on the flatland between the two mountain passes we pulled into a mechanic shop to get the chains put on the van professionally.  (See the first picture, where we all huddled around the wood-burning stove in the corner of the shop.)  At this point we learned that the chains were too small and so they couldn’t go on anyway, not in a mechanic shop and not in a snowy mountain pass.  Our driver magically found a larger size, the mechanics fit them to our tires, and we were off again, feeling much more secure.

Our Lena was such a sweetheart that day, managing to smile even after 11 hours of driving.  (Note: We didn’t take any photos of her screaming to get out, but we could have taken about 50 of those and it would give you a more accurate view of how the trip went!)  We took her out of her car seat at the border between Macedonia and Albania while we waited for our passports to be stamped.  She loooved those border crossings.  And we hated strapping her back into her car seat after we crossed the border in 10 minutes.  Poor darling.

After passing numerous stranded vehicles along the road while we were safe and sound with our snow chains, we spent the night in Tirana, the Albanian capital.  For such a deceptive greeting with horrendous snowy weather, Albania itself turned out to be quite peaceful and lovely.  After a well-deserved rest, we went on a walking tour the next day.

We visited a museum to get a background in the history of Albania.

 We visited a beautiful mosque with an intricately painted ceiling…

… and a very new Catholic cathedral…

… and my parents shopped for hand woven tablecloths after a delicious traditional lunch…

 … and we posed for various photographs.  The usual.

And that, folks, was the last of our trip through the Balkans!  Epic and unforgettable.  We loved sticking through the rough times and the happy ones with you, my family, and we’re ready to do it again!  Well…. actually… hmmm…

And now goodbye from Albania, Green sister-style:

5 :: in Balkans, family, Lena, travel

and now, Albania

Getting to Albania turned out to be harrowing.  I do not exaggerate.  The drive from Macedonia into Albania required us to traverse two mountain passes in a snowstorm.  Although the sky appeared clear and promising before the journey began, that quickly changed as the temperature dropped, our van climbed, and the snowflakes began to fall.

Pretty soon we were driving on a road over an inch of snow, and more snow was falling fast.  At this point we began to be seriously concerned and implored our guide and driver to please put the snow chains on the car.  In retrospect we overreacted, but they also waited too long to even attempt to put the chains on.  By the time the first attempt was made, we were high in the mountains, stuck in a bank of snow, and getting the chains on was impossible.

We did get out of the car at that point, at which point my mom took this picture of me.  I do like playing in the snow… even in dire circumstances! 

After this pit stop, we traveled slowly down the mountain, snow-chain-less and nervous, creeping along past banks of fresh snow.  Finally on the flatland between the two mountain passes we pulled into a mechanic shop to get the chains put on the van professionally.  (See the first picture, where we all huddled around the wood-burning stove in the corner of the shop.)  At this point we learned that the chains were too small and so they couldn’t go on anyway, not in a mechanic shop and not in a snowy mountain pass.  Our driver magically found a larger size, the mechanics fit them to our tires, and we were off again, feeling much more secure.

Our Lena was such a sweetheart that day, managing to smile even after 11 hours of driving.  (Note: We didn’t take any photos of her screaming to get out, but we could have taken about 50 of those and it would give you a more accurate view of how the trip went!)  We took her out of her car seat at the border between Macedonia and Albania while we waited for our passports to be stamped.  She loooved those border crossings.  And we hated strapping her back into her car seat after we crossed the border in 10 minutes.  Poor darling.

After passing numerous stranded vehicles along the road while we were safe and sound with our snow chains, we spent the night in Tirana, the Albanian capital.  For such a deceptive greeting with horrendous snowy weather, Albania itself turned out to be quite peaceful and lovely.  After a well-deserved rest, we went on a walking tour the next day.

We visited a museum to get a background in the history of Albania.

 We visited a beautiful mosque with an intricately painted ceiling…

… and a very new Catholic cathedral…

… and my parents shopped for hand woven tablecloths after a delicious traditional lunch…

 … and we posed for various photographs.  The usual.

And that, folks, was the last of our trip through the Balkans!  Epic and unforgettable.  We loved sticking through the rough times and the happy ones with you, my family, and we’re ready to do it again!  Well…. actually… hmmm…

And now goodbye from Albania, Green sister-style:

6 :: in Balkans, family, Lena, travel

Montenegro, Kosovo, Macedonia (now say it again, faster)

We blew through these three countries, hopping in and out of the car only to eat and sleep, it seemed like.  It was at this point that I started taking fewer and fewer pictures… and taking more and more with my phone instead of my real camera.  So forgive the quality of these and enjoy the memories with me!

In Montenegro we spent the night in the lovely old city of Kotor surrounded by thick stone walls.  The walls open up to a port filled with luxury yachts from around the world, some from as far away as Washington state, USA.  We left the old city and wandered admiringly past the boats until we found this restaurant, where we ate one of the most delicious meals of the entire trip.  Mussels and two kinds of soup for Elliott and me, and topped off with a local Montenegrin wine.  Bon appetite! 

The next morning Elliott took this picture of me doing the unthinkable: numbly strapping Lena into her car seat after our guide told us we had a TEN HOUR drive ahead of us to get to Kosovo.  I stared at him, willing him to be joking.  But he was not.

And he was not kidding the next day.  Or the next day.  Or the next day.  Four days in a row of 10 hours of driving per day!  Our poor frustrated little 9-month-old required almost constant entertainment, as she does not nap for more than 30 minutes at a time in a car.  Ai yi yi.   Due to the unreliability of public transportation in these countries, however, this really was the only way to see the highlights of these Balkan lands.  I will simply say that am grateful that I have seen the Balkans, and I am grateful that we have all survived!

We spent a night in Kosovo and then visited this glorious monastery, which I mentioned before here.   The monk who gave us the tour was so soft-spoken and so in love with the place that into our own hearts there came a sense of supreme peace, a sense that we were visiting a truly holy place.   For me, this was a great highlight of our trip.

And then at last Macedonia!  We spent the night in Skopje, the capital, which is supremely proud of two things: being the homeland of Alexander the Great (on the horse in the photo below) and being the birthplace of Mother Theresa.

Most of us will agree that another thing for which Macedonia will be remembered is the amazing molten lava cake several of us enjoyed for dessert.  We smelled these hot chocolate cakes as soon as we walked into the restaurant and waited throughout our entire meal until we could order them.  (Lest there be any doubt, these three shared one.  I, meanwhile, ate one all by myself.) 

And that was about it for Montenegro, Kosovo, and Macedonia.  One more country to go: Albania!

5 :: in Balkans, family, holidays, travel

Montenegro, Kosovo, Macedonia (now say it again, faster)

We blew through these three countries, hopping in and out of the car only to eat and sleep, it seemed like.  It was at this point that I started taking fewer and fewer pictures… and taking more and more with my phone instead of my real camera.  So forgive the quality of these and enjoy the memories with me!

In Montenegro we spent the night in the lovely old city of Kotor surrounded by thick stone walls.  The walls open up to a port filled with luxury yachts from around the world, some from as far away as Washington state, USA.  We left the old city and wandered admiringly past the boats until we found this restaurant, where we ate one of the most delicious meals of the entire trip.  Mussels and two kinds of soup for Elliott and me, and topped off with a local Montenegrin wine.  Bon appetite! 

The next morning Elliott took this picture of me doing the unthinkable: numbly strapping Lena into her car seat after our guide told us we had a TEN HOUR drive ahead of us to get to Kosovo.  I stared at him, willing him to be joking.  But he was not.

And he was not kidding the next day.  Or the next day.  Or the next day.  Four days in a row of 10 hours of driving per day!  Our poor frustrated little 9-month-old required almost constant entertainment, as she does not nap for more than 30 minutes at a time in a car.  Ai yi yi.   Due to the unreliability of public transportation in these countries, however, this really was the only way to see the highlights of these Balkan lands.  I will simply say that am grateful that I have seen the Balkans, and I am grateful that we have all survived!

We spent a night in Kosovo and then visited this glorious monastery, which I mentioned before here.   The monk who gave us the tour was so soft-spoken and so in love with the place that into our own hearts there came a sense of supreme peace, a sense that we were visiting a truly holy place.   For me, this was a great highlight of our trip.

And then at last Macedonia!  We spent the night in Skopje, the capital, which is supremely proud of two things: being the homeland of Alexander the Great (on the horse in the photo below) and being the birthplace of Mother Theresa.

Most of us will agree that another thing for which Macedonia will be remembered is the amazing molten lava cake several of us enjoyed for dessert.  We smelled these hot chocolate cakes as soon as we walked into the restaurant and waited throughout our entire meal until we could order them.  (Lest there be any doubt, these three shared one.  I, meanwhile, ate one all by myself.) 

And that was about it for Montenegro, Kosovo, and Macedonia.  One more country to go: Albania!

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5 :: in Balkans, family, holidays, travel

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