Archive | agriturismo

traveling in Italy :: staying at an agriturismo

becca-garber-agriturismo-chickens

As I mentioned before, we took a little trip down to southern Sicily while Elliott’s parents were visiting.  We spent our one night away in an agriturismo, or a “farm stay.”  Agritourism is popular in Italy, especially with families: the kids love the animals and the space to run around, the parents love the prices and the experience!  We’ve stayed in a couple of other agriturismi which you can read about here and here.

We stayed in Villa Diana, an agriturismo just a few minutes outside of Agrigento. The owner and host, Dario, was kind and accommodating (and quirky).  The rooms were spacious and each one was one vibrant color; we stayed in “Il Pistachio” which was verdantly green and my parents-in-law stayed in “Il Mandarino” which was vibrantly orange.  Although there were many things that made us raise our eyebrows (the miniscule elevator, the plaster falling off the walls on the outside of the building, the trinkets enclosed in glass display cases throughout the house), we all had a wonderful time and would definitely go back.  Here are a few photos from our stay.

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There were chickens (with eggs!), donkeys, goats, sheep, and a couple of dogs on the property.  Lena loved all of them.  And who are we kidding?  So did we!

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^^^ Ahh, a sleeping babe… and a sweet grandmother! The agriturismo itself is in the background.  becca-garber-agriturismo-goat-daddy

^^^ Loved this daddy goat’s horns!

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^^^ My veterinarian husband.

becca-garber-agriturismo-donkey

becca-garber-agriturismo-petting-donkey

^^^ The donkey was just a month old.

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The agriturismo itself was surprisingly decorated inside with gilded, antique furniture that I assume are family heirlooms.  This is the breakfast room, where we were served fresh pastries, eggs cooked to order, hot coffee and tea, and freshly squeezed blood orange juice.

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^^^ Check out that glass of blood orange juice in front of Lena!  So red.

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Lena finished off our visit with a very serious game of chess.  Just kidding….  The chess set was missing two pawns, and we laughed later when we learned from our friends (who had stayed there three weeks before us) admitted their kids had broken them.  Lena almost broke or lost a couple of pieces herself.  Leaving our marks on the world everywhere with our children….

Do you know if there are places like this elsewhere in the world?  I haven’t heard of the farm/B&B combo in the States but I’m sure they must exist.  Have you ever stayed at a place like this?

14 :: in agriturismo, animals, family, Italy, Sicily, travel

Agriturismo San Fantino

the Italian form of “Magdalena”

We had run out of cereal and milk, so for our last morning in Amalfi we decided to have an Italian breakfast.  This might have also been because I had been craving a cappuccino all week.  You just can’t walk by all these darling cafes and not want to sit down for awhile!  And a Nutella-filled croissant doesn’t hurt either…

As I mentioned before, the town of Amalfi is known for its old paper mills, and many local artisans still make beautiful paper by hand.  We visited several of these shops, and at one of them I purchased some thick, creamy paper with the letter “B” embossed in the top corner.  I’ll need an especially good pen for that paper.

Later we hiked above the town into the hills to see some of the old paper mills.  If we did see them, they were really old.  Like… just a few stone walls in the valley.  But the hike itself was totally worth it, particularly because it passed through so many magnificent lemon groves.

Finally it was time to move on and leave the Amalfi Coast behind.  We drove down the winding highway along the coastline, soaking up last glimpses and final memories.  After several hours on the highway (including, of course, a stop along the way at another beach) we reached Agriturismo San Fantino, a rustic Italian villa with an attached ranch.  Since the 1980s, a huge tourism movement in Italy has been to convert old farms into hotels where families can come stay, meet the animals, and then enjoy a [usually organic] meal made almost entirely from food grown or raised on the property.  I’ve mentioned visiting another agriturismo here, and we have also visited a couple more in Sicily that I haven’t photographed for this the blog.  Visiting an agriturismo is definitely one of our favorite ways to enjoy the Italian countryside: good food and farm animals all in one place.

Before dinner, we explored the ranch, ate wild blackberries, and showed Lena animals in real life (instead of in The Big Red Barn).

Around 8pm we put Lena to bed and then enjoyed a quiet dinner on the patio.  The chef–a cheerful man named Pierluigi–served a dozen appetizers, all of which he had made from produce and meat from the ranch (sheep’s cheese, pork sausage, proscuitto, pickled artichokes, fresh green salad, eggplant bruschetta, etc.).  Elliott and Jess sipped wine from a nearby vineyard.  Later Pierluigi served us steaks from a cow that had been… umm… well, alive just a few days earlier.  Fresh and tasty.  Sorry if you’re vegetarian, but it was delicious!  Pierluigi popped the top off a Heineken and sat down with us to talk as the meal wound down.

And then home again, home again (jiggity jog) the next morning.  We were so ready to settle into regular life again, as always.  I think we all agree, though, that this whole trip has been one of our favorites in Italy thus far, haphazard and last-minute though it was!
2 :: in agriturismo, Amalfi Coast, eat this, Italy, travel

Agriturismo San Fantino

the Italian form of “Magdalena”

We had run out of cereal and milk, so for our last morning in Amalfi we decided to have an Italian breakfast.  This might have also been because I had been craving a cappuccino all week.  You just can’t walk by all these darling cafes and not want to sit down for awhile!  And a Nutella-filled croissant doesn’t hurt either…

As I mentioned before, the town of Amalfi is known for its old paper mills, and many local artisans still make beautiful paper by hand.  We visited several of these shops, and at one of them I purchased some thick, creamy paper with the letter “B” embossed in the top corner.  I’ll need an especially good pen for that paper.

Later we hiked above the town into the hills to see some of the old paper mills.  If we did see them, they were really old.  Like… just a few stone walls in the valley.  But the hike itself was totally worth it, particularly because it passed through so many magnificent lemon groves.

Finally it was time to move on and leave the Amalfi Coast behind.  We drove down the winding highway along the coastline, soaking up last glimpses and final memories.  After several hours on the highway (including, of course, a stop along the way at another beach) we reached Agriturismo San Fantino, a rustic Italian villa with an attached ranch.  Since the 1980s, a huge tourism movement in Italy has been to convert old farms into hotels where families can come stay, meet the animals, and then enjoy a [usually organic] meal made almost entirely from food grown or raised on the property.  I’ve mentioned visiting another agriturismo here, and we have also visited a couple more in Sicily that I haven’t photographed for this the blog.  Visiting an agriturismo is definitely one of our favorite ways to enjoy the Italian countryside: good food and farm animals all in one place.

Before dinner, we explored the ranch, ate wild blackberries, and showed Lena animals in real life (instead of in The Big Red Barn).

Around 8pm we put Lena to bed and then enjoyed a quiet dinner on the patio.  The chef–a cheerful man named Pierluigi–served a dozen appetizers, all of which he had made from produce and meat from the ranch (sheep’s cheese, pork sausage, proscuitto, pickled artichokes, fresh green salad, eggplant bruschetta, etc.).  Elliott and Jess sipped wine from a nearby vineyard.  Later Pierluigi served us steaks from a cow that had been… umm… well, alive just a few days earlier.  Fresh and tasty.  Sorry if you’re vegetarian, but it was delicious!  Pierluigi popped the top off a Heineken and sat down with us to talk as the meal wound down.

And then home again, home again (jiggity jog) the next morning.  We were so ready to settle into regular life again, as always.  I think we all agree, though, that this whole trip has been one of our favorites in Italy thus far, haphazard and last-minute though it was!
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2 :: in agriturismo, Amalfi Coast, eat this, Italy, travel

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