Archive | Sicily

a Sicilian tradition :: Caponata recipe

sicilian-caponata-recipe

Last week some friends and I got together for another cooking class.  This time we learned three classic Italian dishes, and I’ll be sharing step-by-step instructions and recipes over the next few days.  The first recipe is for caponata, also called “eggplant relish,” which is a very traditional Sicilian dish.  The combination of eggplant, peppers, mushrooms, celery, nuts, and vinegar make a tangy, flavorful side dish that my American friends rave about.

Here’s the how-to guide with the complete recipe at the end of the post!

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First, cut your eggplant into 2-inch cubes.  Cover with Kosher salt to draw out the bitter taste and let stand while you prepare and fry the peppers.

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Cut your peppers in half, remove the seeds and stalk, and then cut them in half again.  Chop the quartered pepper into bite-size pieces.  Fry the pieces in vegetable oil in batches, removing them when a fork will slide into them without resistance.  Remove from pan and put them on a bowl or plate lined with a paper towel.

Return to your eggplant.  Rinse, drain, and dry the eggplant before frying it in small batches until lightly browned.  Remove from pan and put them on a plate lined with a paper towel.  (You can see more explanation about frying eggplant in this post.)

Now make the sugo, or sauce.

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To make the “sugo di caponata,” first fry a chopped onion and celery together for 5 minutes.  Then add a 1/2 can of green olives.

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Add 1 cup of tomato sauce OR fresh tomatoes and a spoon of tomato paste.  Sautee together with a teaspoon of salt.

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After the mixture begins to boil, add in peppers, eggplant, sugar, and apple cider vinegar.  Cook until dissolved and continue to stir for two more minutes.

Finally, add capers, raisins, or pine nuts if desired.  Top with fresh basil.  Buon appetito!

 

Caponata Recipe

Ingredients

  • Vegetable oil
  • 2 medium-sized eggplants
  • 2 large red peppers
  • 2 small onions, diced
  • 3 large stalks of celery chopped into large 1-inch pieces
  • ½ jar green olives without pimentos
  • 2 TBSP sugar
  • 1/3 C apple cider vinegar
  • 1 C of salsa di pomodoro, passata OR fresh tomatoes with 1 spoon of tomato paste
  • Optional additions: capers, raisins, or pine nuts
  • Fresh basil leaves

Directions

  • Chop eggplants in large (2 inch) chunks.  Place in colander and sprinkle with salt to sit for 30 min-1 hour.
  • Deseed peppers, chop into large (2 inch) chunks.  Fry batches in vegetable oil with salt in deep pan until partially done and a fork slides into them easily.  Put in a bowl with paper towels to drain.
  • Rinse, drain, and dry eggplant before frying in batches in vegetable oil.  Sprinkle with salt while frying.  Fry until light brown and partially done.  Put in a bowl with paper towels to drain.
  • Sugo for Caponata:  Heat up oil in large non-stick pan.  Add diced onion and chopped celery and cook until fried (5 minutes).  (Add more oil if it is dry.)  Add ½ jar whole green olives without pimentos to mix.  Continue to cook until browned.  Add about 1 cup of salsa di pomodoro, passata, or fresh tomatoes and a spoon of tomato paste.  Sautee together stirring constantly.  Add about 1 tsp of salt.
  • Add peppers and eggplant. Stir all together over high heat.
  • Add two tablespoons of sugar and 1/3 C of apple cider vinegar and mix together until dissolved.  Add to pan and stir.  Cook for two more minutes while stirring.  Salt to taste.
  • Add optional ingredients and fresh basil if desired.
13 :: in eat this, Italy, Sicily

walking in Sicily in the springtime

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Last Wednesday was such a perfect, blue-sky day!  Lena, Gil, and I took our usual weekly walk to buy fruits and vegetables, and along the way I took some pictures of our town in the spring.  Don’t you just want to bury your nose in those beautiful wisteria blossoms?

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Above, a mural of our town showing a festival below the cliff.  On the right, Lena pokes through her snacks for the good stuff while I do my shopping.

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^^^ Already I can’t walk anywhere without a big bottle of water to keep me hydrated.

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On the left, I picked some wisteria blossoms and hung them up at home as “spring mistletoe.”  On the right,  I bought these fish in town and then realized they weren’t gutted!

Funny story about those fish, actually.   I saw the fishmonger’s truck and spontaneously decided we’d have fish for dinner.  The fishmonger saw me waiting with my children and broke into a huge smile of recognition, saying to the five men waiting around me that the signora would go first.  After some discussion, I made my selection and was about to pay for them when I realized I was out of cash!  Embarrassing.  He told me not to worry, he’d set them aside for me.  Around the corner to the bank I went, hurrying as quickly as I could when I have a two-year-old who loves to press the ATM buttons for me.

When I came back around the corner… the fish truck was gone!  Dismayed, I asked a man in the piazza when the fishmonger would be back.

“He went down that way,” the man said.  “He’ll be back in 10 minutes.”

“Ten?” I asked.  “Or twenty?”

*shrug*

I sighed, deciding I couldn’t make two babies wait in the piazza for 10 minutes.  I turned my stroller towards home.  Suddenly I heard someone calling, “Signora!  Signora!”  I turned around and saw an elderly man who had been another customer at the truck… and he was holding my bag of fish!

“He gave the fish to me,” the gentleman explained.  “Here you go.”

I handed him the money to give back to the fishmonger, thanking him over and over.  What a kind, trusting gesture!  I was so touched.

It’s moments like this that I feel most at home in this little Sicilian town of ours: when people take care of me just because they want to.  They know I’m American, they know I’m probably here with the military, they know I’ll come and go just like whole generations of military families before me.  And yet my impermanence does not stop their warmth and generosity to me.  When they admire my children, wave at me in cheerful recognition even though we’ve never spoken, nod politely as I move through the piazza, call “arrivederci!” every time I drive by, pile oranges from their groves into shopping bags and tell me to come back for more, slip fresh eggs from their chickens to my daughter, memorize my order at the store… I actually feel at home in Italy.

14 :: in home sweet home, life lately, military life, Sicily

Enchanted April in Sicily

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Have you ever seen “Enchanted April“?  It has become one of my favorite movies over the years for the sweetness and depth of the story.  Four worn-down English women (housewives, socialites, misfits) decide to rent a villa in Italy during the month of April.  Lulled by the beauty and peace of their location, they are able to heal and bloom.  As a reviewer said, “It is impossible not to be swayed by the promise of restoration for these burdened characters — or for anyone alive.”

That line is also an apt way to describe my feelings this April as Sicily has burst into bloom.  The island’s winters are not long or particularly dreary, but oh! a Sicilian spring!  The air is perfumed with orange blooms, the wisteria covers stone walls, the poppies sway in the breeze, the bees hum from flower to flower.

This past Saturday we packed a picnic lunch and took a hike down into the valley below our house.  (In the photo above, our home is the yellow one below the castle on the far right side of the cliff.)  We wandered through the green grasses slowly before choosing the perfect spot for our picnic blanket.

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^^^ Love bugs.

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That’s Mt Etna, the largest volcano in Europe, behind us.

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^^^ Pears, proscuitto, crackers, and local cheese.

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I love this photo of Gil on the right!

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^^^ Right before we got home, Elliott found one of the biggest grasshoppers we’d ever seen.  I tried to get a picture of Lena holding it, but he bounded away in a flash!

Are you enjoying spring in your corner of the world?  What’s your favorite part about it?

19 :: in family, hiking, Sicily, weekend

traveling in Italy :: Agrigento and the Valley of the Temples

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According to our guidebook, Agrigento and the nearby Valley of the Temples is the top tourist destination in Sicily.  The Valley of the Temples archeological park (Parco Valle dei Templi) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and boasts several beautifully-preserved temples strung along a ridge overlooking the ocean.  The temples themselves include the best examples of Doric columns outside of Greece.  We visited Agrigento last year with our friends the Arthurs and were excited to take Elliott’s parents this year.

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^^^ We’re off!  We brought our double stroller for this adventure and were so glad for the sturdy tires when we did some off-roading to get a close look at the temple ruins.  Gil obliged by sleeping in his car seat most of the time…

becca-garber-agrigento-temples-baby-stroller   becca-garber-agrigento-temples-stroller-collage  becca-garber-agrigento-temples

The redbuds were in bloom, as well as many other gorgeous spring flowers.  Such beauty.becca-garber-agrigento-temples-bee-flowers becca-garber-agrigento-temples-family-picnic becca-garber-agrigento-temples-climbing

^^^ I turned around and saw Lena and Elliott chilling on a wall. NBD.

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^^^ Baby figs!  And a very doting Grandpa.

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^^^ Doting Grandpa take 2.  I couldn’t resist.

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And the obligatory Elliott/Lena/bug picture.  I wonder how much longer she’ll be fascinated before them before a sense of fear or dislike sets in?  Hopefully it never will….

A little info if you’d like to visit: the Valley of the Temples archeological park costs 10 euro per person for the main (Eastern) side and 15 euro for the entire park.  (The other half includes some less-impressive remains of more temples.)  If you throw in a visit to the Scala dei Turchi as well, it’s well worth the drive from other tourist locations (for us, ~2 hours from near Catania).  We stayed at an agriturismo callled Villa Diana one night and would recommend it to others.  For our one evening in Agrigento, we ate dinner at Kokalos, a popular restaurant that overlooks the night-lit temples.  If you are planning a visit and have more questions, I’d be happy to answer them!

5 :: in family, Sicily, travel, visitors

traveling in Italy :: staying at an agriturismo

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As I mentioned before, we took a little trip down to southern Sicily while Elliott’s parents were visiting.  We spent our one night away in an agriturismo, or a “farm stay.”  Agritourism is popular in Italy, especially with families: the kids love the animals and the space to run around, the parents love the prices and the experience!  We’ve stayed in a couple of other agriturismi which you can read about here and here.

We stayed in Villa Diana, an agriturismo just a few minutes outside of Agrigento. The owner and host, Dario, was kind and accommodating (and quirky).  The rooms were spacious and each one was one vibrant color; we stayed in “Il Pistachio” which was verdantly green and my parents-in-law stayed in “Il Mandarino” which was vibrantly orange.  Although there were many things that made us raise our eyebrows (the miniscule elevator, the plaster falling off the walls on the outside of the building, the trinkets enclosed in glass display cases throughout the house), we all had a wonderful time and would definitely go back.  Here are a few photos from our stay.

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There were chickens (with eggs!), donkeys, goats, sheep, and a couple of dogs on the property.  Lena loved all of them.  And who are we kidding?  So did we!

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^^^ Ahh, a sleeping babe… and a sweet grandmother! The agriturismo itself is in the background.  becca-garber-agriturismo-goat-daddy

^^^ Loved this daddy goat’s horns!

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^^^ My veterinarian husband.

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^^^ The donkey was just a month old.

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The agriturismo itself was surprisingly decorated inside with gilded, antique furniture that I assume are family heirlooms.  This is the breakfast room, where we were served fresh pastries, eggs cooked to order, hot coffee and tea, and freshly squeezed blood orange juice.

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^^^ Check out that glass of blood orange juice in front of Lena!  So red.

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Lena finished off our visit with a very serious game of chess.  Just kidding….  The chess set was missing two pawns, and we laughed later when we learned from our friends (who had stayed there three weeks before us) admitted their kids had broken them.  Lena almost broke or lost a couple of pieces herself.  Leaving our marks on the world everywhere with our children….

Do you know if there are places like this elsewhere in the world?  I haven’t heard of the farm/B&B combo in the States but I’m sure they must exist.  Have you ever stayed at a place like this?

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14 :: in agriturismo, animals, family, Italy, Sicily, travel

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